User talk:BadPlayer

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I'd like your opin of the new Orichalcos replica. Also, could you post a pm please? --Narchibald84 16:35, 19 August 2006 (UTC)

Leave the Japanese Headers[edit]

When making new card articles, and you don't know the Japanese sets they're from, simply remove the 'Place Set here' line, but leave the Japanese header, and two lines under it blank, so it's easy to add the sets later.

--TwoTailedFox 18:24, 13 August 2006 (UTC)

How to delete Articles[edit]

Sadly, in keeping with Wikia policy, only Admins can delete Articles. If there is an article(s) you need deleted, send 'em to me, and I'll get right to it.

--TwoTailedFox 09:58, 4 August 2006 (UTC)


A few pointers...[edit]

Uploaded Filenames:

We are currently working on a way of creating card image galleries for all sets. So, I'd appreciate it if you could standardize the file names of the files you upload as follows:

  • CardNameSET-LN.jpg
  • CardNameSET-LN.png

where...

CardName is the official UDE English name of the card (if it exists in the English TCG) OR, the commonly-accepted English translation of the card's name (if it does NOT exist in the English TCG). If you're dealing with Japanese OCG-only cards, a good source of accepted English name translations are the numerous Yu-Gi-Oh! video games. If at all possible, try to get the name from the NEWEST of these (i.e., try WC6 first, then NTR, then WC5, and so on).

SET is the two- or three-character abbreviation used for the set's name (e.g., MFC for Magician's Force, 301 for "The New Ruler", etc.). Some early cards have no set abbreviation. In this case, certain "in house" abbreviations have been decided upon. These currently include:

  • Booster 1 = 1
  • Booster 2 = 2
  • Booster 3 = 3
  • Booster 4 = 4
  • Booster 5 = 5
  • Booster 6 = 6
  • Booster 7 = 7
  • Volume 1 = V1
  • Volume 2 = V2
  • Volume 3 = V3
  • Volume 4 = V4
  • Volume 5 = V5
  • Volume 6 = V6
  • Volume 7 = V7
  • Starter Box = SB
  • EX Starter Box = E
  • Premium Pack 1 = P1
  • Premium Pack 2 = P2
  • Dark Ceremony = DC
  • Limited Edition 1 = L1
  • Limited Edition 2 = L2WJ (LE2 has printed set abbr. WJ since it was distributed by W-Jump; L2WJ distinguishes them from later W-Jump promos)
  • Valuable Book 1 = VB1
  • Duel Monsters 1 = G1
  • Duel Monsters 2 = G2
  • New Duel Monsters 1 = S1
  • Duel Monsters 1 (Tournament) = DM1
  • Duel Monsters 2 (Tournament) = DM2
  • World Standard Championship 1 = WS1
  • World Standard Championship 2 = WS2
  • Asian Championship 1999 = T1

LN is a two-letter abbreviation indicating language. Designations currently in use are:

  • EN = English
  • JP = Japanese
  • FR = French
  • C = French-Canadian (LOB, SDY and SDK only)
  • DE = German
  • IT = Italian
  • KR = Korean
  • PT = Portuguese
  • SP = Spanish

For example, the "HellPolymer.jpg" should have its name standardized to "ChthonianPolymerDP2-JP.jpg", since the official UDE English name of the card is "Chthonian Polymer", the picture is from the DP2 set, and the language of the card is Japanese.


Card Pictures:

THIS IS MAJOR. As you hopefully noticed before starting to edit pages on Yugioh Wikia, ALL submissions must be

a) written by yourself; OR


b) copied from a PUBLIC domain or similar free resource.

THIS INCLUDES PICTURES! Any card images that have site names overprinted on the picture should NOT be uploaded.

A good source of pix is ideal808.com. Even there, though, you need to keep a close eye on the stuff you save off, as although most of their pix are clean, some (although very few) are marked.

Another small point: Although the size limit on pix is a recommendation, not a law (not yet, anyway!), it is a very reasonable one. It may be nice to have a card picture that fills the entire screen, but the larger the picture, the more space it takes up in Wiki's mainframe, and the longer it will take to load for those accessing Yugioh Wikia from older systems.

So, try to keep your pictures around 300 × 450 pixels, with no overprinted site advertising of ay kind, and they should be fine.


Other than that...?

Well, other than those two points, what you're doing seems to be looking ok so far. If anything major is wrong, I'll let you know.

If you want any help, whether to check accepted English translatios of OCG names, or suggestions on improvements, whatever, give me a shout. You can leave me a message on my Discussion page, or IM me at <[email protected]>, and I'll get back to you.

Good luck for now, and keep on editing!


--TwoTailedFox 17:14, 30 July 2006 (UTC)

A few more pointers[edit]

OK, for Normal Mmonsters, the card text (or lore) needs to be in Italics. You can do this by putting '' at each end.

Also, Could you please list Sets in the Card Articles themselves Alphabetically? i.e.:

It makes them easier to view the sets that way.


Also, when making English Card Articles from scratch, can you please put this just above the English Sets?

'''''English:'''''

If you need an example just look at Worm Drake for an example.

--TwoTailedFox 18:33, 30 July 2006 (UTC)

Wheee![edit]

OK, for some of the earlier card sets, you need to documents all Sets. LON has -000, -E000, and -EN000 Set Numbers, and those all need to be included in Card Articles. Same goes for LOB, SRL, MRL, PSV, LOD, and MRD Cards.

--TwoTailedFox 19:17, 30 July 2006 (UTC)